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April | About Three Feet part I

The title’s nod to Sterling Spencer aside, there’s a playful irony in how every report seems to echo the refrain of “3 feet,” regardless of the actual wave size. Whether it’s a towering 3 feet overhead or a playful 3 feet chest-high, the consistency of the measurement becomes a humorous constant.

This recent swell proved to be an exhilarating ride. The relentless rips churned up the beachie, discouraging all but the bravest from testing the waters. Over at the point break, the peaks sprawled wide, offering a lineup that shifted unpredictably. Even the usually reliable spots were no sanctuary, as double overhead sets caught even the seasoned locals off guard.

Adding to the challenge, the offshore winds lent a rough texture to the waves’ faces. What ensued was a bumpy, tumble-filled journey for surfers daring to take on the break.

This will be a rare 2-parter with the next episode coming soon

Reblogged 2 weeks ago from


@jamesofsuburbia1 says:

1:17 almost got chopped

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